Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease and line a 9x5-inch loaf pan with parchment paper, leaving a little overhang.

Heat 1 tbsp butter or olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent, about 3-4 minutes.

Add sliced mushrooms and a pinch of salt; cook until mushrooms release their liquid and it evaporates, about 6-8 minutes.

Stir in garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Finish with soy sauce or another pinch of salt and a grind of pepper. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg or dried thyme if using.

In another bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in the milk and olive oil until blended.

Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients and stir gently until mostly combined.

Fold in the grated Comté, sautéed mushroom mixture, chopped hazelnuts, and chopped parsley. Don’t overmix.

Transfer the batter to the prepared loaf pan. Smooth the top and sprinkle reserved hazelnuts and a few extra shavings of Comté.

Bake for 45-55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let the loaf rest in the pan for 10-15 minutes, then lift out with the parchment and cool on a rack for another 10 minutes before slicing.

Serve warm or at room temperature with a crisp green salad, grain mustard, or a dollop of plain yogurt.